With a stunning old town and captivating architecture at nearly every turn, charming Riga, Latvia has been eyed by settlers and other nations for centuries due to its prominent trade location along the Daugava River.
A port city established in 1201 by Bishop Albert, Riga was granted city status in 1225. Even though local Liiv tribes inhabited this marshy territory on the banks of the Daugava, the city’s history is associated with both Germanic and Christian cultures.
Over the centuries, the city developed as a trade and transit center, and later as an industrial hub. Up until the 19th century, Riga grew as a Germanic city, even though it had been previously under Swedish, Polish, and Russian control.
[The Freedom Monument]
Following the War of Independence (between Russian, Germanic, and Bolshevik forces), Latvians began to take control over Riga, effectively establishing it as their capital city. Smack in between two world wars, the country was officially recognized in 1921 by Europe.
[Kaķu nams aka The Cat House, Old Town Riga]
Old Town Riga, located in the historic and geographic center of the Latvian capital, is a popular tourist draw, with cobblestone streets and an abundance of architectural gems.
[Rozena Street]
Spread your arms out on Rozena Street, the narrowest street in Riga, decorated with hanging starry lights at dusk.
[A view from the top of St. Peter’s Church at 72 meters high]
Old Town Riga, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997, features stunning Medieval-era buildings and unique sacral structures. Constructed by guilds of craftsmen and artists during different historical periods, Riga is a fine example of how cities were built back in the day.
Riga’s Old City is a walking museum. Over 500 buildings can be found here, containing a variety of architectural styles: Romanticism, Gothic, Mannerism, Baroque, Eclectic, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and Modernism.
On one of my days here, I set out on a customized walking tour with Andra Brice, a friendly and informative guide who provided an in-depth background on Riga’s history inside my hotel’s lobby, before setting out on a day filled with visual and culinary treats (see further below for my Riga Michelin Guide restaurant experience).
[Three Brothers]
Key sights include the Three Brothers, Riga Castle, the Powder Tower, and many other architecturally and historically important structures.
[Dome Cathedral]
In a relatively confined territory, five religious denominations were able to live peacefully with one another – each with their own church. Old Town has three key churches worth a visit: Riga Dome Cathedral, St. Jacob’s Church, and St. Peter’s Church.
[St. Jacob’s Church]
The St. Peter’s Gothic tower, standing at over 130 meters high, was completed at the end of the 15th century, and collapsed in 1666. In 1690, a new tower was built in the Baroque style containing several domes and galleries. In 1721, lightning struck the tower and it burned down. At the decree of Russian Tsar Peter I, the tower was renovated. The church was also demolished (and its tower burned down) during World War II.
Its tower provides a breathtaking view of the red roofs of Old Town, the modern part of the city, Riga Bay and the Daugava River with its large port.
[Rooster, St. Peter’s Church]
From the 15th century until 1941, St. Peter’s Church has housed six rooster wind vanes high atop its spire. The first rooster was bent by a storm, the second was blown down from the steeple, the third was removed due to storm damage, the fourth fell down in the churchyard during a storm, the fifth one collapsed, and the sixth came down when the tower collapsed.
In 1970, a new rooster was erected, renovated, and gilded for the church’s 800th anniversary. Why a rooster, you might ask? In the Bible, St. Peter (a Jesus disciple), promised to deny Jesus three times before the rooster crowed. This led to the rooster becoming a symbol of St. Peter for Christians.
[Riga Cathedral’s 1884 organ, considered one of the most valuable in the world]
Riga Cathedral, dating to the 13th century, is the seat of the Latvian Lutheran Church’s archbishop and features an impressive organ with a magnificent sound. It’s the largest medieval church and one of the oldest religious buildings in Latvia as well as in the Baltic region. Its architecture is a mix of Romanesque, early Gothic, Baroque and Art Nouveau styles.
Art Nouveau District
The Riga Art Nouveau Centre is the only museum in the Baltics dedicated to Art Nouveau heritage, built in 1903 by Latvian architect Konstantīns Pēkšēns as a private residence.
[Looking up at the gorgeous staircase inside the Riga Art Nouveau Centre]
The house was split during the Soviet era to provide communal living. Following a major renovation in 2009, the museum contains a collection of Art Nouveau pieces from Latvia and the rest of Europe.
[Bringing nature to the city: A Wintergarden, Art Nouveau Centre]
Art Nouveau encompassed an entire lifestyle, from clothing to painting to household objects. Amazingly, Riga is home to over 800 Art Nouveau buildings, the first one built in 1899. This period lasted for 15 years, up until World War One. Art Deco followed the Art Nouveau age.
Discover the culinary heart of Latvia with a private guided tour of Riga’s Central Market, one of Europe’s largest and most vibrant markets.
Following the Latvian War of Independence, five Zeppelin hangars were dismantled and used to build the hangars of this fascinating centuries-old market, and are included in Old Town Riga’s UNESCO World Heritage status.
[Milti Un Gaļa’s handmade Ukrainian dumplings, made fresh inside the Riga Central Market]
A guided personalized experience here allows for exploration and enjoyment of Latvia’s rich flavours and traditional culinary treasures, from Latvian rye bread to local fish and sweets.
And speaking of food, all that walking is bound to work up an appetite. Here are a few of our favourite restaurants in Riga:
[B Bārs delicious sushi entrée]
B Bārs Restorāns is a popular spot right by the Riga Dome Cathedral, and serves up a well-varied menu that includes local specialties and creative seafood dishes alike. We started off a hearty meal with a Riga Black Balsam liqueur sampler, then dove right into some potato pancakes topped with smoked salmon and a sushi dish with layered textures of goodness. A disco ball towards the back of the room adds to the weekend ambiance with DJs and dancing.
[Chef’s Corner’s Diver scallops, Jerusalem artichoke cream, seaweed]
Michelin Guide Chef’s Corner offers beautifully prepared and presented dishes including steaks, oysters, amazing salads and pastas, plus desserts including cakes and pastries from Mulberry next door. Worth saving your appetite for!
[Mulberry’s delightful pistachio cake with crushed nuts and raspberry gel]
Kaļķu vārti, nestled in the historic heart of Old Riga, is a true find. This friendly restaurant offers elevated comfort food in a historic three-story building, with duck confit, seafood broth soup, and quinoa lentil salad amongst its current menu.
I enjoyed hearty corn-fed chicken with an array of veggies and a hazelnut tapenade following a lovely bowl of seafood broth soup.
Between St. Johns and St. Peter’s churches in the heart of Old Town on Skarnu street, lies cozy family restaurant Pētergailis. The first photos of the building that the restaurant is housed in date to the early 1820’s when it was a four-story warehouse.
[The Pētergailis Apple Gin Spritz mocktail: Lyre’s gin, apple smoothie, lemonade base]
[Scallops with apple puree, lightly marinated apple, balsamic and carrot caviar]
Later revamped for both residential and commercial use, Pētergailis became one of Old Town’s first restaurants in the 1970’s. It’s a delightful place to dine, filled with rooster objects, an ode to St. Peter’s church next door with its golden rooster on top of the distinct green tower.
Kipsala
Accessible by bus or trolley, Kipsala, formerly a fisherman’s island, has gentrified into a desirable neighbourhood with an eclectic mix of renovated timber houses (some between 120 and 200 years old) combined with newer villas. Enjoy a walk along the Daugava river while taking in views of Old Town Riga’s churches and spires. Each house contains its own unique story, and there’s a beach in the area as well.
The Zanis Lipkes Museum is a thought-provoking exhibition dedicated to Zanis Lipkes, a Kipsala docker who risked his life during WWII to save the lives of 60 Jews, some of whom he hid in a bunker next to the museum.
This museum, crowned 2014’s European Museum of the Year Award, is a moving tribute to visit when on this side of the river.
[ESPA Riga]
ESPA Riga
Located in the very heart of Riga, ESPA Riga is one of the Baltic’s largest, internationally recognized five-star day spa centres. It’s a wonderful way to unwind after travelling or walking around the Old City, or in my case, ahead of an international flight. Relax and renew with one of their treatments, or enjoy time in the thermal suite and active leisure area.
[Outdoor heated whirlpool, Thermal Suite]
The Active Leisure area contains an 18-metre heated swimming pool, vitality pool with air and water jet streams, rock sauna, steam room, heated loungers plus a fitness studio with Technogym equipment to get you back up and running again. There’s also showers with several jets for an invigorating experience.
Up on the sixth floor, the adults-only Thermal Suite includes an outdoor heated whirlpool, relaxation room and lounge area with fireplace, sauna, intimate sauna and steam pods (for one or two people), post-heat ice fountain and waterfall.
The steam pods are pretty unique in that they periodically release aromatherapy oils for a multi-sensory experience. This floor is where spa treatments are provided as well.
The Active Leisure area costs €35 (€40 on weekends); a combination Thermal Suite and Active Leisure area visit is €50 (€65 on weekends). Discounts are offered to Radisson Blu Latvija and Elizabete hotel guests.
[Renault FU, 1919: A multi-purpose vehicle used at breweries and vineyards, and during WW1 to carry tanks]
Museums
With two exhibition halls containing an area of 1,100 square meters, a sculpture garden, a café, and a roof terrace, Zuzeum is a relative newcomer in Riga and hosts a number of exhibitions during the year.
Hosted by Philanthropist/art collector Jānis Zuzāns, the modern, well-lit space was a former factory, and later an event venue. A separate wing of the museum contains Zuzāns’ massive private art collection (viewing available by appointment).
[Malle Leisa, Girls; 1972]
Auto enthusiasts will want to check out the Riga Motor Museum, with a vast and eclectic collection of vintage motor vehicles.
[Stutz, Series A “BearCat”, the first serially-produced sports car, 1910]
There are several interactive elements contained throughout the museum, making for a fun and educational visit for all ages.
[Benz Patent Motorwagen]
Amongst the classics is the Benz Patent Motorwagen, the world’s oldest patented car, amazing Soviet cars, the Kremlin collection, racing cars, and military machinery.
All tours and museum admissions were generously provided by Latvia Travel for the purpose of this feature. Opinions, as always, remain my own.
