Alberta’s culinary scene was in full force this week as five regional chefs were brought to Granville Island’s Edible Canada for an evening of enlightened dining, AB-style.
[John Gilchrist, CBC Radio host and food critic]
CBC’s John Gilchrist hosted the evening, introducing Chefs Dave Bohati (MARKET), Eric Hendry (Model Milk Bistro), Brayden Kozak (Three Boars Eatery), Eden Hrabec (Crazyweed Kitchen) and Blair Lebsack (RGE RD).
[Prairie Garden squash, sour cherries, Gold Forest Grains farro, McKernan Foods cider vinegar, pickled onion]
The multi-course evening started with a trio of canapes to whet our palates along with a refreshing Banff Mountain Ice cocktail.
[Alberta chefs Eden, Brayden, Blair]
With a seat up front close to the prep stove, I watched with fascination as the chefs got busy. By the time one course hit one of the room’s two long tables, the next was already being prepped.
These pork croquettes are filled with Hillview Farms pork and award-winning cheese maker Sylvan Star’s gouda. Dutchman Jan Schalkwyk is currently ranked fourth in the world for best Gouda cheese, produced right in the heart of Alberta: Red Deer!
The entire evening brought Alberta’s culinary talent, farmers, and artisan producers to center stage.
[Salt-roasted Alberta rutabaga, Highwood Crossing oats, Greidanus honey, Walleye Bottarga]
One of the dinner’s biggest surprises? Chef Eric Henry’s salt-roasted Alberta rutabaga with Highwood Crossing oats, Greidanus honey, and Walleye Bottarga, paired with a glass of Big Rock Grasshopper Wheat Ale. As I’m not a wheat ale fan, I chose a glass of Penticton’s Moraine wine, meant to pair with Chef Bohati’s smoked duck breast deconstructed pastrami sandwich.
[Alberta rabbit, toasted Gold Forest Grains barley, green tomato, sunchokes with smoked fish sauce caramel, spring leaves & flowers]
[Caesar’s Ghost cocktail, paired with Alberta rabbit]
The Moraine Winery Pinot Noir was a great way to cleanse the palate between bites of the rutabaga, best combined with honey on the fork. Chef Henry’s culinary career began at Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts right at the entrance to Granville Island, bringing things full circle.
[Green Eggs & Ham smoked duck breast pastrami, Gruyere aioli, bread n butter pickles, Highwood Crossing cold-pressed canola, rye bread]
I didn’t have the pastrami main, instead opting for a beautifully presented kale salad prepared by Edible Canada. The restaurant is very accommodating to various dietary requirements and allergies.
[Nature’s Green Acres nouveau boeuf loin, braised shank, overwintered onion galette, grilled romaine, rye & Pecorino streusel, black garlic reduction]
Chef Blair Lebsack served us a plate of Nature’s Green Acres Nouveau Boeuf loin with overwintered onion galette, grilled romaine, rye and Pecorino streusel and black garlic reduction.
The grass-fed beef that Lebsack uses poses a challenge: the animals need to get to the right weight for slaughter and this can take two years. Chef Lebsack purchases a dozen cows a year from Nature’s Green Acres and uses the animal’s meat from tip to tail. The cattle never leave the farm, thus producing a super tender meat. Driven by a passion for Alberta’s terroir and the abundance of quality produce, Chef Lebsack has made it a priority to cultivate relationships with farmers.
The Long Ride to Saskatoon cocktail paired with his dish contains Alberta Premium Dark Horse Whiskey as well as Saskatoon berries steeped in Steven Smith black tea. The rosemary on top works well with the beef’s flavour.
[L to R: Eden Hrabec, Blair Lebsack, Brayden Kozak, Dave Bohati, Eric Hendry]
After starting his culinary career in Victoria, BC, Chef David Bohati quickly climbed the ladder, learning from renowned West coast chefs. Since opening Calgary’s MARKET two years ago, Chef Bohati has raised local and national attention for his work with the restaurant. Our host John Gilchrist nominated MARKET for enRoute Magazine’s Best New Restaurant in 2013. Additionally, Chef Bohati placed gold in 2014’s Gold Medal Plates.
Eden Hrabec is the Executive Sous Chef of Canmore, Alberta’s Crazyweed Kitchen. In October 2012, Eden participated in Calgary’s Gold Medal Plate Culinary Competition where she took gold in the regional event, later advancing to the finale in Kelowna where she won the People’s Choice award. She recently returned home from India after having being sent on a culinary travel grant awarded by City Palate Calgary.
[Grizzly Paw Moose Knuckle Stout & sour cherry-braised Alberta bison, Ranch short rib, parsnip puree, wilted organic chard, parsnip crisps]
Eden presented a magnificent Alberta Bison Ranch short rib braised in Grizzly Paw Moose Knuckle Stout and sour cherries. The dish also included wilted organic chard and parsnips done two ways: crisps and purée. This was paired with a light yet flavourful glass of Big Rock Traditional Ale.
Three Boars Eatery’s Chef Brayden Kozak was born in Edmonton and raised in Wainwright, Alberta. He’s worked in Victoria, Vancouver, and Edmonton. Three years ago, he opened Three Boars, working as a forerunner in the local food scene; the restaurant won Avenue Magazine’s Best New Restaurant the following year. More recently, Brayden and his partners opened Farrow Sandwiches and Coffee, another award-winning venture.
[Lemon curd mousse, meringue & blueberries, honey caramel & apple butter shortbread, salted caramel chocolate bonbon]
Desserts were no less impressive. Lemon curd mousse with meringue and blueberries, honey caramel and apple butter shortbread, and a salted caramel chocolate bonbon graced a small square plate to cap off a fine evening of inventive cuisine and hearty conversation.
Here’s a schedule of upcoming Coast to Coast dinners:
June 1 | Nova Scotia Month
Executive Director of Devour! The Food Film Fest Chef Michael Howell and Taste of Nova Scotia
September 1 | Quebec Month
Chef Derek Dammann from Maison Publique
October 1 | PEI Month
Chef Ross Munro, Owner/Operator of Prince Edward Island Culinary Adventures
November 2 | New Brunswick Month
Chef Chris Aerni of Rossmount Inn
Dinners run from 7 to 10 pm, tickets for each dinner are $99, and it’s advisable to purchase in advance online. Price includes wine and beverage pairings, gratuities, plus 10% off all retail products purchased that evening. Visit Edible Canada online for up-to-date Coast to Coast Dinner Series info.
