With 11 days and evenings of Cornucopia wine, food, and wellness events to attend this year, food and wine lovers were spoiled for choice when it came to deciding on the ‘must-attend’ events of this year’s extended festival.
[Alta Bistro Executive Chef Nick Cassettari]
I chose to feature two dinners, both at Alta Bistro, both decidedly different in spirit and in menu.
[Bartender Ted]
Friday evening’s Slide and Dine featured a four course dinner paired with BC wines. Executive Chef Nick Cassettari and his recently-renovated Alta Bistro presented wines from both Sumac Ridge and Black Sage Vineyard.
[Kusshi oyster with verjus granite, lemon, horseradish, paired with Sumac Ridge Stellar’s Jay Brut]
Cassettari’s dishes matched well with all four dishes, particularly the braised shin of beef (from Two Rivers Meats), Pemberton potato terrine, Rootdown Farm squash, creamed arugula, fried sunchokes and parsnips, with hearty French du puy lentil sprouts.
[Braised shin of beef, Pemberton potato terrine, Rootdown Farm squash, creamed arugula, fried sunchokes and parsnips, du puy lentil sprouts]
The tender beef and its succulent accompanying sauce married with Black Sage Vineyards 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, with its hearty, full mouth, and long finish. Also a treat was the contrast in textures between the light, crisp fried sunchoke and parsnip together with the gorgeously soft beef and squash.
[Albacore tuna crudo, preserved lemon crème fraiche, gremolata, dried black olive, smoky garlic toast, roasted prawn and tomato oil, young radish, frisée]
To back up a course, a beautifully-presented dish with albacore tuna crudo, smoky garlic toast, roasted prawn and tomato oil, young radish leaves and frisée (paired with a Sumac Ridge 2012 Pinot Gris) was another winner, the very locally-sourced albacore tuna combining with that juicy prawn and tomato oil, along with the bouncy spirit of the Pinot grigio.
[Textures of organic dark chocolate, cherry, espresso, malted milk jam]
Our luscious, decadent dessert was served with a glass of Black Sage’s 2007 Pipe, a beautiful after-dinner sipper, to round off a delightful experience.
The name of the dinner referred to a bobsleigh ride at the Whistler Sliding Centre’s Olympic Track. Diners were given a voucher after dinner to experience a g-force adventure – with a top speed of 100km/hour – in our former Olympic playground.
The following evening, we travelled to Chef Cassettari’s native Australia for a six-course with wine pairing kicked off with oysters and champagne. At Altitude Australia, chef Cassettari (together with guest chef Owen Foster) literally went wild, serving everything from kangaroo to steamed barramundi.
[Kusshi oysters dressed with verjus granite, tuna tartar, and horseradish]
The evening began with Kusshi oysters dressed with verjus granite, tuna tartar, and horseradish, paired with an NV Joseph Chromy Sparkling Brut. The verjus (pressed juice of unripened grapes) granite is spoon-friendly and would serve as a lovely accompaniment to any bivalve, with its fruity, icy composition.
[Rossdown Farm red curry chicken, ancient grains, mushroom & black garlic jam, coconut & chicken liver parfait, fresno chili, paired with 2010 Robert Oatley Gewürztraminer]
[Fried octopus, smoked chilled mussels, cilantro & celery salad, semi-dried mango, ginger, puffed quinoa, finger lime, jalapeño, paired with 2012 Brokenwood Semillon]
[Minted lamb snag, stone fruit, wattleseed, lamb bacon, pomelo, paired with 2009 d’Arenberg ‘Laughing Magpie’ Shiraz Viognier]
[Roasted kangaroo loin, star anise & long pepper, oxtail and dried plum, black rice in black tea, textures of purple beets, black truffle, aromas of burnt eucalyptus, paired with 2010 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon]
I noticed a similar theme between the two dinners: Chef Cassettari loves to combine food, play with ingredient textures, and create a sensation for the palate. I’d not had the chance to try kangaroo until now, however when I tasted the shredded, delicate oxtail meat below, I was hooked on the flavour balance between the two meats.
The oxtail has a deep, rich flavoured jus that hit the right notes of the Cabernet. Another culinary favourite was the choice of combining black rice with black tea on the dish.
A canister of dry ice containing burnt eucalyptus brought the essence of Australia straight to our noses, as we watched the steam emanate from the other tables.
[Steamed barramundi, borlotti beans in crème noisette, radish, smoked steelhead roe, lemon balm, paired with 2012 Shaw and Smith ‘M3’ Chardonnay]
Another favourite dish was the steamed barramundi atop borlotti beans finished with steelhead roe, crème noisette, radish, and lemon balm. The unoaked M3 Chardonnay produced an adventure in flavours for this dish, with its lively grapefruit and apricot notes. Popping the steelhead roe in my mouth, then sipping on this wine was a winning moment for me that evening. Shaw and Smith are Adelaide Hills-based winemakers, out to raise the bar when it comes to fine Aussie wine.
[Compote of quince, roasted apricot sorbet, vanilla pannacotta, daquaise cake, burnt cinnamon, Pemberton hazelnuts, paired with 2008 De Bortoli ‘Noble One’ Botrytis Semillon]
Alta’s dessert that evening switched from a chocolate to a fruit focus, presented in a small mason jar, and paired with Australia’s highest-awarded dessert wine, the ‘Noble One‘ Botrytis Semillon.
The room’s atmosphere was also heightened with the soft glow of candles, conversation, and great Australian food and wine, making this a highlight of my Cornucopia experience.
It looks like the Alta Bistro team are preparing multi-course holiday meals for Christmas and New Year’s. Fresh local seafood, meats, and dessert will be on offer for $75. If you’re headed to Whistler, I’d recommend splurging on delectable treats from Nick Cassettari’s kitchen.
The recently-expanded and reopened Alta Bistro is located at 4319 Main Street (at the Pinnacle Hotel) in Whistler.
