Tofino’s Long Beach Lodge Resort is situated on a fine stretch of beach (Cox Bay) just down the road from the Wickaninnish Inn.
I settled into a deluxe king bedroom overlooking the surf action for two nights on a recent trip over to Canada’s rugged, quiet west coast. Here, time slows down and rush hour on the beach translates to surfers heading out to catch the best waves.
Owner Tim Hackett had a vision from his first time eyeing this particular stretch of beach: make it a home away from home. Back in the 1960’s, he’d sleep on the beach with friends and to this day still considers Cox Bay one of the most gorgeous beaches in the world.
With sunsets like these, it’s no wonder he decided then and there to create the resort that currently includes 41 deluxe rooms and 20 cottages. He’s overseen just about every detail of the resort since its conception 13 years ago.
The resort’s onsite Surf Club will give you a good introduction to surfing (and stand up paddle boarding). You’ll get a lesson that includes board and wet suit rental and a dip in the hot tub and sauna when you’re through tackling the waves.
Rooms feature double soaker tubs and separate showers, Judith Jackson Spa amenities, coffee and tea makers, a large fridge and plenty of closet and storage space.
The balconies have a couple of wooden chairs to enjoy the action below (a small table for drinks and snacks would make a great addition here).
Speedy wifi and a full-size desk are welcome for getting to emails and writing. A flatscreen TV, fireplace and chairs with blankets make for a cozy away-from-home space by the sea.
A small gym is located further down the parking lot, in the same complex as the gift shop and guest laundry machines.
Long Beach Resort has the best of both worlds: beach and native coastal vegetation. The view from the Great Room is also pretty awesome, particularly when oysters and BC wine are involved.
Dining
All through November, the Great Room’s been offering free oysters from 4 to 6 pm for guests each Tuesday and Friday evening in celebration of November Oyster Month. On my recent visit, Kusshi (Deep Bay) and Climax (Clayoquot Sound) were the two featured oysters, shucked fresh at the entrance of the restaurant.
Tables are spread out to take prime advantage of the expansive ocean view out front. Once the sun’s set, tables are lit with small locally-made oil lamps, glowing to show off the wooden accents and First Nations artwork spread around the restaurant and bar.
Executive Chef Ian Riddick uses several regional suppliers including Nanoose Edibles Organic Farm, Outlandish Shellfish Guild, Salt Spring Island Cheese and Natural Gift Seafoods.
Dishes evoke the West coast essence. My tuna and scallop duo was well paired with a glass of Pinot Gris. The Natural Gift tuna loin and scallops, asparagus, bacon, purple beet cream and root vegetable fricassee was an absolute delight, the texture of the asparagus marrying with the soft, seared scallops sitting atop a bed of beet cream.
[Photo courtesy Long Beach Lodge Resort]
Dessert was another standout. The Great Room Pie offering that night was a classic apple alongside a scoop of homemade hazelnut ice cream. Perfect with a cappuccino to end a relaxing night in one of Tofino’s most charming atmosphere in addition to a romantic crackling fireplace within earshot.
Sleep
The waves will lull you to sleep; the comfortable bed will keep you there! I only woke to check out the moonlit sea early one morning and was thankful that I did. What a photo op!
On my bed was a super-cozy duvet to keep me warm after I turned off the fireplace. Windows off to the sides partially open to let in that soothing ocean and sea air.
This place really draws a relaxed, friendly clientele. I lingered over breakfasts watching the surfers take to the ocean, bobbing in unison while waiting for that killer wave to ride back to shore. Speaking of breakfast, don’t miss chef’s homemade granola with seasonal berries and organic yogurt.
Trails or Surf?
If you’re not into surfing/learning to surf, I highly recommend nearby Schooner’s Cove, a small, secluded beach at Long Beach’s north end. Get a Pacific Rim National Park pass at the visitor’s center just near the entrance of Long Beach Resort ($7.80 per 24 hours) and drive down towards the airport. Just before you reach Airport Road, you’ll spot the Schooner Trail sign to the right.
The trail is about 2.5 km from the parking lot, and you’ll walk a mini-Grouse Grind, up (and down) a series of staircases and boardwalk for about 20 minutes. Once you’re at the end, you’ll be rewarded with a view like this if you catch the tide at the right time of day.
Good to Know
For Rogers cellular customers, a trip to Tofino means little to no connectivity unless you’re at a restaurant or hotel. Consider this a gift. You’ll want to spend your precious time off the grid enjoying some of the most fantastic scenic nature you could hope for, right here at ‘the edge of the world’. Nothing else past THESE waters until you get to Japan!
And if you really need to stay connected out here, take comfort in knowing that fibre optic cable is currently being installed around Tofino so that in early 2016 the quality of internet service will definitely improve.
The strip is spread out so you’ll need a car. Tofino Brewery, Tacofino, Common Loaf and Rhino Coffee are all local hangouts and Tofitians congregate between work hours and surfing to chat, sip and dine.
Getting Here
Orca Air has a few daily flights from YVR South Terminal, an easy 15-minute courtesy shuttle ride away from Arrivals Level 2 (domestic and international stops). Our eight-seat Piper Navajo Chieftain got us to tiny Long Beach Airport in about 50 minutes. From there, it’s about a 10-minute drive to the resort (Budget Car Rental is located inside the terminal).
Or plan your trip via BC Ferries, making the four-hour road adventure through beautiful scenery to Tofino from either Nanaimo or Swartz Bay.
From Horseshoe Bay, BC Ferries takes you to Departure Bay in Nanaimo. From Tsawwassen (south of Vancouver), the choice is between Duke Point near Nanaimo and Swartz Bay near Victoria. It’s then a four-hour drive through one of the most scenic roads that’s earned the journey a Michelin North American Road Atlas Top Canadian Drive.
The Long Beach Lodge Resort is located at 1441 Pacific Rim Highway in Tofino, BC. I was a guest of Long Beach Lodge Resort. Opinions, as always, are my own.
